Bali or Bust – Cat O’ Mine Reaches Bali by Bernie Siddall

Cat O’Mine crew in Bali or Bust shirts. L to R: Peter Greenhalgh, Roger Bishop, Jim Williams, Dave Phipps & Bernie Siddall missing Peter Downs.

Bali or Bust – Cat O’ Mine Reaches Bali  by Bernie Siddall

The weather forecast was in two parts: a dream run followed by the worst storm of the season! Too late to do much about it, we start in 3 hours!

It had been a long, frustrating and expensive exercise to get the boat and crew to the start line. Cat O’ Mine is a 2009-built Seawind 1160, well used to coastal passages and already the veteran of a half circumnavigation of Australia – from the Yard in Woolongong, NSW over the top and down to Port Geographe. We needed, and had obtained clearances for: Safety (Cat 1); competence (15 courses completed); Immigration & Customs ($$’s paid out and forms filled in) and Insurance inspections, haul-out and big $$’s).

We crossed the start line for the Wonderful Indonesia Fremantle to Bali Race & Rally  at 12:05 on 4th May 2013. In the distance, the Duyfkin sails along to farewell us and VIP boats buzz amongst the fleet. News helicopters hover and the senses are assaulted by sounds, sights, waves rocking the boat and the dry, salty taste of anticipation. Down below, personal gear is getting stowed and territory is being staked out. Six guys in four beds can be a problem; however, the two shake-down voyages established who would bunk with whom.

The winds stayed light, so we motor sailed all day, only getting enough drive from  the sails after dark to push us along at our target of 6 – 7 knots to reach the safety of Shark Bay before the storm hits.

We round Steep Point at 02:00 on Day 4 and hide behind Dirk Hartog to ride out the storm.  At 20:00hrs it hits and we drag our anchor, destroying our windlass in the recovery process. By 16:00 on Day 5 it’s through and we venture out again, this time heading for Exmouth to refuel and pick up parts before crossing.  A screaming reach up the outside of Ningaloo Reef under double reefed sails puts us back into the fleet, but we come up into 28 knots and steep seas as we round North West Cape and head for the Exmouth Marina. Our parts are at the airport but it’s closed until tomorrow, so we relax and restock as the wind howls.

Day 8 and we’re off into roughish seas and 20 knots, heading at 5 degrees for Benoa Marina, Bali. A boisterous day gives way to a sunny afternoon as the wind swings aft and we hoist the MPS until the tropical sun drops like a parachute flare into the ocean and stars burn bright in the darkness. Down below, we experiment with opening a hatch above the bed. Splash! Close it quickly and put the fan on as the heat builds. The boat pitches side to side as the cross swells roll in and every 5 to 10 seconds a wave crashes up under the boat with a shuddering thud. Sleep is all but impossible, so we lie there waiting for our turn on watch.

Peter G plugs in the coded numbers, B31 15 34 114 13 (Boat 31 plus lat and long), presses the send button and our 2305 position report goes by satellite phone to Race Control. Minutes later the phone screen light up and “Okay” appears. Later we type “Happy Mothers’ Day from the crew of Cat O’Mine” Press and send. The girls reply from the luxury of their villa units in Ubud. The satphone is our only line of communication with the outside world and we treat it with the utmost respect. The early morning blue skies give way to storm clouds and a line squall that is coming towards us. Steady 22 – 24 kt winds  whip up to 35 – 40 as the visibility is reduced and driving rain attacks us. More water sloshes over the cabin top and dumps on the autopilot control, sending it into a schizophrenic fit. The howl of the wind is altered as the wind generator goes into overdrive and whines like a World War Two fighter plane diving in behind us. The angry seas fume and foam and we look apprehensively at each other, wondering what will happen next. Through all this, the rig has stood firm with Jimmy holding the boat at 40 degrees to the wind, feathering all but the back of the jib and the tip of the battens in the main sail. “Jib & Battens, Boy” he drawls in his broadest Cornish accent as he recalls the advice of an old salt in the yacht club of his youth. After 20 minutes, the winds swing and moderate to their normal 22 – 25 kts and we know we are through the worst. A second squall dumps more warm liquid on us and the autopilot gives up the fight – it’s hand steering for the next three days! By lunchtime on Day 12, the wind has veered to the north and we either head off east or drop the sail and motor straight into the breeze and seas pointing directly to Bali. We choose the latter and the iron headsail chatters away as we resume the bash and crash that has characterised the voyage so far. We are far enough west to be in the shipping lanes and we spend time checking on vessels coming south through the Lombok Straight and on to Australia. I call the Bai Lu Zhou to tell them we are in their path and after a while their English speaking officer acknowledges and we pass as ships in the night at a safe distance of less than two miles. “Land Ho!” The cry goes up on Day 13 and imperceptibly a vague shape on the horizon slowly transforms into the rugged outline of the Island of the Gods. Dave estimates an arrival around midnight into Benoa Marina and doesn’t like it. On goes the other engine and forward goes the throttle.

Smoothly, the boat lifts and we surge onwards at 6.8 knots – giving a 2130 arrival. Steering is so much easier with the helm balanced! “Race Control, this is the Finish Boat. Cat O’Mine crossed the line at 21 36 12” We are over the line and a round of congratulations and back slapping ensues as the Finish Boat ups anchor and guides us through the winding channel to the Marina. From the boats already moored comes a round of “three cheers” and horns and people shouting to us. Up goes our yellow Quarantine flag, just below the red and white Indonesian flag, and soon the fenders are out as we tie up alongside “Moggy” (great name for a catamaran!).

Now for some sleep and then the arrival party on Saturday. To our surprise and delight, we are awarded second place in the Catamaran division of the Rally fleet. But would we do it again? – Not for a while is the short answer. We were the oldest crew in the Rally, with an average age of 72 and we take a while to recover!

Fremantle Bali Boats berthed in Bali’s Benoa Harbour  

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