Waves of many forms surround our daily life. Some are invisible, and others are in every item our eyes come across while we're awake. And then, the most magical of them all: liquid waves.

When was the first time you have ever seen the breaking of an ocean wave?

Were you young or already a grown-up adult? Were you alone, with family, friends, or schoolmates?

How and where did you first see a wave? In a newspaper, magazine, TV, or real life, right in front of your eyes?

Do you remember what you felt? Wonder, fear, excitement, doubt, hypnotism, fascination, attraction, obsession, or a bit of all of them plus a few more?

Waves are forever intriguing, unique, and pretty much like every single one of us.

We do share a lot with these ocean travelers.

We, the people, and the waves are born, evolve, grow, and blend together until we eventually reach our ultimate destination and dissipate for eternity.

We witness waves through their whole life cycle, and, in a way, they too.

The Peaceful Ever-Marching Army

The relentless marching and crashing of the waves - there are few natural events we can spend hours observing without feeling tedious.

Their different hues exhale and trigger human feelings.

There's the turquoise wave, always peaceful and heavenly, and there's the navy blue wave, introspect and violent.

And all the in-between shades that, like us, fill a rich and nearly endless canvas.

My fascination for the beach and the waves began when I was a toddler.

No matter how dangerous the waves were, I felt that I wanted to experience them, merge, and be part of their revolution.

Have you ever noticed that a person may become part of a wave, even if for a few seconds? Try closing your eyes, diving underwater before they're about to break, and let go.

You'll roll with it until it's gone.

Today, I cannot be on a beach and not look for waves. It's an automatic process embedded in my subconscious roots since I was a kid.

For many, the absence of waves near a sun-kissed sand strip is a dream scenario. "It's better for swimming," they say.

For me, it's a near-desolate scenario.

Waves are life. They're like a bustling city in the first week of September. They keep our hopes and fantasies possible again.

Imagine a painting featuring two empty chairs on top of a cliff overlooking the ocean. And then, imagine if all the elements of the painting were kept still, except for the constant movement of swells.

The waves would travel and break and return forever, like a live broadcast on canvas, and the remaining objects and surrounding features would stay quiet, unmoved forever.

That would be the perfect artwork, blending human creation and Nature's will.

My good friend Romy Muirhead kicked off that elusive dream, portrayed in her magnificent 1999 artwork, "Chairs," a print that I bought, framed, and put on my office wall right in front of me.

Swells should be televised 24/7. I believe there would be an audience.

And there's more than just the power impressions the hues and the never-ending flow provide.

There's the shape and size, two variables carrying drama, tranquility, impatience, freedom, anger, care, confusion, grief, serenity, and the complete palette of basic and complex human emotions.

The Wave as a Living Entity

Have you ever asked a wave a question? Have you ever asked a wave for a wish to come true? Have you ever thanked waves for soothing your pensiveness?

I believe waves are living entities. Waves have changed my life.

They allowed me to be carried by their energy when I was a teenager, and they allowed me to dedicate part of my professional life to the pleasures and joy they bring to millions worldwide.

To be able to walk on water. What a blessing, isn't it?

Some of the finest tributes ever paid to the magic of surfing were actually made by people who have never ridden a wave.

I remember one in particular.

"It's perfectly logical to me that surfing is the spiritual, aesthetic style of the liberated self," Timothy Leary said back in the 1970s.

"It's the metaphor of life to me: the highly conscious life."

Waves are water in motion, near-perpetually moving energy.

They divert and diverge and get channeled if superior forces get into play. They know their limitations and have no plans to rule the planet.

They sometimes dare to enter our territory without permission, like an army furiously invading the enemy's land.

There's actually a paradox in the elements: water can beat earth, and air may extinguish fire.

Waves are indeed a metaphor for everything in our life. They come and go and come, just like the beginning is the end is the beginning.

Medicine Against Hopelessness

Humans have become so enthralled by waves that some of us have designed our own mechanically-generated ripples without the critical help of their definitive creator, the wind.

Trillions of waves have lived and perished on our blue planet, and many more shall come.

It's the everlasting journey of life and death, a mirror of our own insignificant existence.

I know how a wave feels, marching among many others with no clear destination.

Once, in my 20s, I was deep in the Sahara Desert and told the group I was with that I wanted to go for a walk on my own for a while.

And so I walked, up and down dune after dune, under a dry 100.4 °F (40 °C) plus heat. I kept strolling until I could no longer see humans.

And then, from the top of an orange sand dune, I looked around 360 degrees, and all I could see were desert dunes popping here and there, from my feet to the horizon and infinity.

Only one thought came to my mind: "We are nothing. Nature is everything."

The feeling of pure and total insignificance and irrelevancy was overwhelming and still haunts me today.

So, waves know they're ephemeral, and nevertheless, they keep going.

Waves are the mayflies of the aquatic world with their short yet underrated role on Earth. Imperfect but mystical; destructive but healing.

Whenever I can, I check on them.

On those days of hopelessness, witnessing the conciliating power of an incoming swell for some minutes will shed a small light on our darkest thoughts.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/a-tribute-to-the-waves

Australia's Chayne Simpson was crowned the 2024 kneeboarding world champion at Jeffreys Bay in South Africa.

The 2024 Kneeboard Surfing World Titles were held from August 17 to 25 in good to epic conditions at one of the world's premier point breaks.

It was the largest-ever gathering of kneeboarders, and the performance level was an all-time high.

Simpson and Albert Munoz - both former world champions - finished first and second, respectively, in the open division, outlasting more than 120 competitors from 11 countries.

Anne Milochau claimed the open women's division, followed by Patti Hook, who traveled from Outer Banks, North Carolina.

Three American kneeriders earned world titles, and several others performed well amongst the most talented field ever assembled.

San Juan Capistrano's Kevin Skvarna, current US champion, won the pro junior division (ages 20 to 29), San Diego's Brad Colwell won the immortals division (ages 65 to 69), and Ventura's Scott Wessling won in the invincibles division (ages 70+).

Skvarna and Wessling both successfully defended titles won in 2022 at the most recent world titles held at Costa Nova, Portugal.

Colwell previously earned a world title in 2017 in Somo, Spain, in the legends (ages 60 to 64) division.

San Diego's Jack Beresford finished second in the kahuna's division (ages 55-59).

San Clemente's Sean Noone and Hawaii's Shaun Murphy finished third in the legends (ages 60-64) and seniors (ages 30-39) divisions.

A Solid American Participation

The United States also finished third in the Aloha Cup, a team competition that pitted five kneeriders from each country against each other in a tag team format.

South Africa won the event, and Australia finished second.

Finals day featured some of the biggest waves of the competition, with sets topping six to ten feet and offshore conditions.

The event was held at the Point section of Jeffreys Bay, which offered rippable waves each day of the contest.

The competition was broadcast daily on YouTube, including the finals day.

In all, 17 US kneeriders traveled to South Africa to compete and test their skills at Jeffreys Bay, a bucket-list destination for surfers because of how the point transforms raw ocean energy into perfectly shaped waves.

Most American competitors qualified for the world titles by competing in the 2024 Kneeboard Surfing USA Titles held in February at Huntington Beach Pier.

Established in 2003, Kneeboard Surfing USA is dedicated to promoting camaraderie in the sport of kneeboard surfing through competitions, kneelo gatherings, and other activities.

The next KSUSA titles will be held on February 14, 2025, in Huntington Beach.

2024 Kneeboard Surfing World Titles | Champions

Open Men: Chayne Simpson (AUS)
Juniors: Owen Fairweather (AUS)
Pro Juniors: Kevin Skvarna (USA)
Seniors: Jedd McNeilage (RSA)
Masters: Hamish Christophers (NZL)
Grand Masters: Lester Sweetman (RSA)
Veterans: Stephen van der Watt (RSA)
Kahunas: Simon Farrer (AUS)
Legends: Stephen Cruickshank (RSA)
Immortals: Bradford Colwell (USA)
Invincibles: Scott Wessling (USA)
Open Women: Anne Milochau (FRA)

https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/chayne-simpson-wins-2024-kneeboard-surfing-world-titles

One of the beauties of surfing is that each session has a story to tell, an experience to share, or an unusual event that will be remembered forever.

The act of surfing implies moving and traveling, even if you're riding a bike to your local surf break.

Also, the fact that it depends on natural elements and variables makes the art of walking over water an even more magical adventure.

Riding a wave is not only a personal challenge or a display of vanity and endless skills and style. It's also meant to be fun.

Sometimes, it's also funny and humbling, reminding us that even champions fail, fall, and have their embarrassing moments.

We decided to search for a few amusing, short surf stories shared by anonymous surfers in the digital world.

In the end, SurferToday found some hilarious accounts worth a read.

We've slightly edited them for a better understanding but tried to keep their original writing style to respect the author's sensitivity.

Hopefully, they'll inspire your next weekend's journey into yet another unforgettable surfing day. Have a good one.

 

The Package

When I was a young surfer, I was out at Kealia Beach on a day when the waves were breaking right on the shoreline.

I was catching a lot of waves that took me all the way to the beach, and I happened to catch one more that did just that.

As I was riding in, I noticed a group of young women watching me, pointing and seemingly impressed.

I rode that wave right up to the shore, thinking it was the perfect opportunity to strike up a conversation with them.

Normally, I was a pretty shy guy, but I figured if they were pointing at me, they must have been impressed with my surfing skills, so why not give it a shot?

As I started walking over, I noticed they were pointing and smiling even more.

But as I got closer, I realized they weren't looking at my face - they were looking a couple of feet lower.

I glanced down and, to my horror, saw that my surf shorts fly was wide open, and my "package" was enjoying some unexpected sunshine.

I turned about 50 shades of red, quickly spun around, and headed straight back to the water, determined to keep surfing until those women had left.

 

"Get Off Me!"

I was visiting friends in Oregon, and they took us to this amazing beach.

The place was stunning - surfing near these coastal cliffs with trees lining the edges, the view was just breathtaking.

So, I spot this sweet big wave and start paddling for it on my 9' log. 

It was a rental, and I wasn't really comfortable or confident on waves that big with the board, but I decided to charge anyway.

I felt a speed like never before as I flew along the face.

That's when I noticed a local on a shortboard about 20 yards ahead to my left, and I had no idea what to do - I was heading right for him.

In a panic, I jumped off my board right next to him, thinking I was about to crash straight into him.

After getting tumbled around underwater, I surfaced to find his head stuck between my thighs, and he was yelling, "Get off me!"

I felt awful for getting us tangled up like that, but looking back, I can't help but laugh at how ridiculous the whole situation was.

It was definitely a dumb move, and he made sure to tell me I should never have jumped off.

The Rocket

I was surfing at Freshwater, a really busy spot in Sydney, not too long ago.

I was sitting on the shoulder and managed to paddle into a wave when I suddenly heard someone shouting for me to pull out.

So I did, and one of the local rippers came flying by, absolutely tearing it up.

After his wave, he paddled over to me to thank me for giving him the wave.

"Very kind of him," I thought, feeling pretty chuffed that this guy even acknowledged me.

As he was talking to me, I got a little too caught up in the moment and wasn't paying attention to my surroundings.

Suddenly, a wave or a bit of chop hit me, and I lost my balance, falling backward off my board.

My 9' Malibu shot straight up into the air like a rocket, as if it were launching into space!

The guy stopped mid-conversation, gave me a look, and just paddled off. I had to laugh - definitely not my finest moment!

 

Surfing Under the Influence

I usually wouldn't recommend surfing under the influence, but there was this one time.

A friend and I had been drinking beer, and we were pretty tipsy when we came up with the brilliant idea of going surfing.

We headed out to Kealia Beach, which was my regular spot at the time.

It was stormy, with wave faces around 10 feet - not too big to be scary, but big enough to be a lot of fun.

This was back before surfboard leashes were a thing, and I was riding a right that ended in a closeout section.

Now, before I got into board surfing, I was on the swim team, and we practiced diving a lot.

So I'd ride the wave until it closed out, then turn to the top and throw in a forward one-and-a-half somersault off the wave's peak.

I only pulled this stunt when my friend was around to watch, so I made sure to do it right in front of him, where the wave crashed hardest.

After I did a few of these, he started begging me to stop.

"You've got to stop doing that! I'm laughing so hard I almost drowned. Please, man, stop!"

I couldn't help but laugh and told him I was thinking of trying a backflip next.

His response was immediate: "No! Seriously, I'm going to drown if you keep this up!"

I was like, "Really?"

And he said, "Yes, seriously."

So, I decided to quit. I had a feeling he was even drunker than I was, so I suggested we head back in.

 

Classifying Trunks By Surf Size

I remember one day, I went out for a surf session.

The waves were about 2-3 feet on the Hawaiian scale, and the paddle out didn't seem too tough.

So there I was, paddling a few meters away from a friend, when suddenly, right in the break zone, the button on my shorts decided to pop open.

My shorts were nearly down to my knees before I even noticed!

I wish I could've seen the whole thing from someone else's perspective because I must have looked ridiculous.

I dropped my board and started frantically trying to close my shorts, probably looking like I was drowning in the process.

After taking two or three waves straight to the head and making a complete fool of myself, I finally managed to get my trunks back in place and finish paddling out.

Ever since that day, I've started classifying my trunks by surf size: "It's three feet solid out there; maybe better skip these ones."

No Surf Here

This was my first time going out solo after having surfed with friends a few times before.

I headed to Bolsa Chica on a sunny, warm summer day with 1-3 foot surf - nothing too intense.

Initially, I tried parking near the jetty, but the lots were packed, so I drove to the other end of the beach, where there were more spots available.

After pulling in, I spent a few minutes checking out the waves, then went to change, slathered on some sunscreen, did a light warmup, and mentally ran through what I wanted to practice that day.

As I was slowly making my way toward the shore, weaving between groups of people on the sand, I suddenly heard a voice, "Excuse me... excuse me, sir?!"

I looked around to see who was calling out. It was the lifeguard, and he was staring straight at me.

"See that flag up there?" he said, pointing to a yellow flag on top of the tower. "It means you can't surf here."

Feeling completely dejected and embarrassed, I had to do the walk of shame back to my car, fully suited up, and drive back to the other end of the beach to hunt for a parking spot again.

 

"Shortboarding Messes Up My Longboarding"

So, the other day, I was at Waikiki and overheard a conversation behind me:

"I used to ride a shortboard all the time, but not anymore."

"Why's that?"

"Because now I'd rather longboard, and even if I had the chance, I wouldn't ever ride a shortboard again."

"How come?"

"Shortboarding messes up my longboarding. Even leashes mess up my longboarding; that's why I don't wear them."

Curious, I turned around to see who was talking, expecting to see some seasoned surfer.

To my surprise, it was an 11-year-old tiny little girl.

 

Surfing Hollywood-Style

One time, I headed out to San Onofre for a mid-week session after work.

I pulled into the lot, changed, grabbed my board, and made my way out to the lineup.

As I was heading out, I noticed it was already starting to get dark, even though there was still at least another hour and a half of daylight left.

Everyone I passed or paddled near was giving me strange looks.

I just shrugged it off and paddled out to the outside to wait for the sets.

That's when I realized - I still had my sunglasses on, looking like I was trying to go full Hollywood in the lineup.

I tried to play it cool as if I meant to bring them, but after about 15 minutes, I gave up and paddled back in to put them away.

 

"Great Job!"

It was a small summer day at my beach break, and I was cruising along a two-foot wave close to shore.

As I passed by, I noticed this little girl standing in the water, thigh-deep, wearing a pink swim dress and a matching pink sun hat, holding her mom's hand.

She waved at me, so I smiled and waved back as I rode by.

Then, she made a fist, stuck her thumb up, and pumped it at me, yelling, "You're doing a great job!"

As long as I surf, I'll never get a better compliment than that one.

"Are you OK?"

When I finished college, my wife and I would often go surfing together.

We'd hit the same beach but usually surf slightly different breaks - I'd chase after the fast, challenging waves, while she preferred to cruise on the mellower ones.

One day, she wiped out just inside of where I was surfing, close to the shoreline, and ended up spearing her leg with a fin.

I heard her screaming for help, so I paddled over to get her and her board up onto the beach.

We were about 50 yards from the parking lot when she told me she couldn't walk well.

She could, but every step made her bleed all over the place, so I figured I'd carry her.

She was only about 100 pounds, and it was just a short distance to the parking lot.

What I didn't account for was that after four years in Colorado for school, I was in pretty lousy shape.

I picked her up and started carrying her, leaving the boards behind. At first, she wasn't too heavy - at least for the first half of the way.

But then I started thinking, "Oh my gosh, I'm going to have to put her down."

I gave myself a pep talk: "You're halfway there. You can do it!"

I convinced myself that if I put her down, picking her back up would be much harder, so I became determined to make it in one go.

I could see the car and told myself, "It's just 20 more yards; you've made it this far. Just a bit more."

Then my wife asked, "Are you OK?"

I guess it was because the veins in my face and neck were bulging, and my face was turning beet red.

Her concern made me worry, too, but I dug deeper and told myself, "Just ten more yards."

Right then, this guy came running up to us and said, "Oh no! Are you going to be OK?"

I replied, "It's just ten more yards. I think I can make it."

But he said, "Not you - her!"

I finally got her to the car, but I was so winded that I couldn't even answer him.

I was gasping for air like an asthmatic cow, heaving huge breaths as I tried to get some oxygen to my brain.

"Is there anything I can do?" he asked. I just kept gasping, still unable to speak.

"Should I go get your boards?"

I looked down the beach at the boards and nodded, still too breathless to talk, though I tried to say, "Yeah."

I don't know if he understood, but he went and got the boards anyway.

By the time he returned, I was finally able to thank him and reassure him that my wife just had a minor wound and would be fine.

 

Mind the Fins

I was out at Bolsa Chica, just starting to move from riding the whitewater to trying my luck at catching "green" waves out back.

It was a smaller day with low tide, and the waves were breaking close to shore.

After about 30 minutes of getting nowhere with the waves out back, I decided to move inside and catch some whitewater instead.

I caught a few and started having a blast - back then, just getting a wave and gliding for a split second was pure stoke.

Feeling pretty "cool," I decided to ride one all the way in to shore and try that slick jump-off move I'd seen in YouTube videos.

So, I catch a wave and start riding it straight to shore, trying my best to look like a real surfer.

Everything was going fine until my fin snagged in the sand, sending me flying over the nose and rolling right onto the beach.

To make matters worse, I bailed right in front of a group of people casually strolling along the shore, letting out one of those loud grunts you make when the wind gets knocked out of you.

I just laughed it off when they asked if I was OK and paddled back out - ears burning red with embarrassment and my pride taking the only real hit.

 

Mr. Entertainment

A group of college kids were having a party while a fun wave was breaking nearby.

One guy had everyone's attention and was really hamming it up for the crowd.

"Mr. Entertainment," clearly tanked, stumbled into the surf with a beer tucked into the back pocket of his boardshorts.

He paddled up and down the lineup, desperately searching for a wave - any wave.

Finally, one came his way, but he was too busy watching his friends and was sitting sideways.

The wave pitched him over, sending his leashless board straight to the shore.

He frantically searched for his beer and found it just in time to take another wave on the head.

Calling it quits, he popped the can open, only for it to explode right in his face.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/a-collection-of-funny-surf-stories

Imagine a competitive surfing heat in which surfers catch no waves and score zero points. Who wins? Who advances to the next stage?

The surreal scenario is not an impossible one.

Recently, in a World Surf League (WSL) Qualifying Series (QS) event, two surfers were tied with 0 points with under two minutes to go.

Teresa Bonvalot and Bahia Frediani were surfing a quarterfinal heat at the Pantín Classic in Galicia, Spain.

The swell forces were low, and the small sets on offer were spaced out.

Minutes passed without any surfer taking off on a wave. Both athletes were sitting side by side, with Bonvalot wanting to keep close to her opponent.

At some point, the WSL Rulebook (10.02) gives the head judge a few options.

It states that if no surfers have had a ride after ten minutes have passed in any heat of 30 minutes or less or event finals, the head judge may:

1. Continue with the priority situation maintained;
2. Restart with the priority situation continuing if it had been established;
3. Postpone and re-run the heat in their sole discretion, taking into account all circumstances;

None of the three above options were activated, apparently because the head judge considered that both surfers were out of position.

The truth is that a few small yet rideable waves passed by their side, with none of the competitors paddling for them.

So, the judgment was correct - surfers were not in the peak or take-off zone, supposedly more focused on not losing the priority.

The Zero Points Rule

But what would happen if no surfers caught any wave?

If they were tied on above zero points, the rulebook (10.06) says the tie would be split by:

1. Counting each surfer's best counting wave score;
2. Compare each surfer's next best wave until the tie is broken;
3. Surf-off;

However, because they were tied with zero points and none of the above options are applicable, the WSL Rulebook says, "the advancing procedure to the next round will be per their seeding."

Consequently, Teresa Bonvalot would go through to the semifinal based on the seeding into the Spanish event.

However, with 1:55 seconds on the clock, Frediani decided to paddle for a very small wave, scoring 0.23 points.

Forty seconds later, realizing she needed to do something, Bonvalot takes on a slightly better wave and 1.93 points for her effort.

It would be her sole-scoring wave of the heat.

Suddenly, needing desperately for a backup, Bahia answered with another 0.23-point score, but in the end, it was not enough.

"We were fighting for the first priority. We both knew we were too much to the right," explained Bonvalot.

"I wasn't going to give her the inside, so I just sat there, and in my mind, I was OK with that. To be honest, I thought she would just go."

"In my mind, I was not expecting the judges to restart the heat. If they did, it wouldn't make sense because we weren't obviously in the right place."

"With this higher tide, you can have one wave in the beginning and then nothing in the end, so whoever gets that first one will be one step ahead."

In one of the most unusual women's heats in surfing history, Teresa prevailed.

She indeed got the best wave of the heat, even though it wasn't the first one ridden.

Is the First Wave Worth It?

Kelly Slater once said that the chances of the first wave being the best wave of the heat are relatively low, so there's no reason to fight vigorously for it.

Statistically, the greatest competitive surfer of all time seems to be right.

However, in small surf conditions, no one knows what your opponent(s) will do.

Are they thinking the same way you are? Are they going the exact opposite way?

Will they try to gather points from the get-go and give up on a potential priority situation for a better mid-heat wave?

Which wave management strategy is the best?

Statistics and knowledge of the rules can help, but sometimes, there's nothing like a strong and confident mindset and well-thought strategic options for all moments of the matchup.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/what-happens-when-surfers-dont-ride-any-waves-in-a-heat

The Indonesian authorities are building a concrete seawall around the Uluwatu cliffs to prevent the Pura Luhur Temple from sliding into the Indian Ocean.

The decision to proceed with the controversial $5 million construction raised the alarm among the local surfing community and several non-governmental organizations.

The plan is to create a protection ring that saves the sacred Uluwatu temple and strengthens local river systems and waterways.

The goal is to build a coastal road and an 82-foot (25-meter) seawall that protect the cliffs and human-made structures from collapsing.

The cracks on the southern cliff face are visible, and the situation is not new.

The initial signs of deterioration in the integrity of the coastal feature date back to 1992, when an earthquake compromised the tall and steep rocky faces.

The local government limited the number of visitors allowed in the religious site and area, but it was not enough.

Now that there's imminent danger and the risk of losing the Pura Luhur Temple, the Balinese authorities started tearing apart the iconic cliff to make way for the road and the concrete seawall that will wrap its base.

The natural beauty that has ever since become a symbol of this surfing paradise will be replaced by a wall of concrete.

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Unexpected Consequences

The consequences of these actions are not yet known.

Nevertheless, the always-sensitive nearby ecosystem will probably witness changes in natural sand movements, water currents, and wave patterns.

The local community feels that they were not consulted before the start of the brutal construction of the fortress wall.

There's also the feeling that the degradation of the cliffs is not due to swells but to excessive rainwater.

But there are also locals who fear that their publicly expressed concerns could be seen as criticism against Bali's spiritual, cultural, and religious traditions.

In the world's most populous Muslim nation, Bali is mostly Hindu, making political decision-making even more complex and sensitive.

Bali has 4.4 million inhabitants, 87 percent of which are Hindus. Around 80 percent of the island's economy is tourism-based, part of it driven by surfing.

Uluwatu is home to five outstanding waves that regularly attract surf travelers from around the world.

The Pura Luhur Temple area, in particular, is also known for three peaks: Secrets, Lurches, and Temples.

One thing is for certain: the excavators and heavy demolition machinery have already brought part of the cliff down, and that cannot be undone.

 

240,000 Surfers Visit Uluwatu

Save the Waves Coalition is trying to raise awareness of the importance of this place for everyone.

"We recognize the spiritual, cultural, and economic significance of Pura Luhur Uluwatu to the people of Bali," the organization noted.

"This ancient Hindu temple has stood for over a thousand years and attracts thousands of visitors every day."

"Its protection and preservation align with the values ​​held by all communities to safeguard their cultural resources for future generations."

"However, like many other places across Bali and around the world, we are concerned about the potential environmental risks this project poses to the surrounding marine and surf ecosystems."

"To our knowledge, no Environmental Impact Assessment (EIA) has been undertaken for this proposed road project."

"Without such an assessment, it is impossible to quantify how Uluwatu's biodiverse surf ecosystems may be affected."

"Uluwatu's coral reefs, which create world-class waves, also support rich marine life, including dugongs (a relative of the manatee), sea snakes, reef sharks, turtles, and a variety of reef fish species."

"There have even been sightings of orca whales in the area."

In addition to environmental concerns, it is important to assess whether the project will impact wave quality."

"Uluwatu's wave quality attracts surfers from around the world."

"A 2014 study by Save The Waves and conservation partners found that over 240,000 surfers visit Uluwatu and contribute $35 million (USD) to the economy annually."

Ultimately, the preservation of Pura Luhur's religious relevancy is mandatory. It is also a source of income for the region, thanks to the number of tourists it welcomes every day.

However, a massive wall of concrete is hardly compatible with the region's untouched natural beauty and won't certainly go unnoticed by visitors. 

On top of all that, it's not the first or second time a similar project destroys another source of revenue for local economies.

The cards are on the table. It's in the hands of those in power to take full responsibility for their actions.

Harms to Nature can rarely be reverted.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/shocking-concrete-seawall-threatens-uluwatu-cliffs-and-waves

When was the last time you were asked to pay to step on a beach? Probably never. But if you have, then you're most likely in New Jersey, where beach tags are required to access its Atlantic sand strips.

Most of the world's beaches are free access, meaning everybody can enter, walk, and swim in the ocean.

Consequently, this also means that private beaches are rare, with most of them possibly located on private islands.

So, why is New Jersey charging residents and non-residents fees to enjoy the sandy zones by the sea?

Are beaches a luxury in the Garden State? Yes and no.

The Concept

Beach tags, or beach badges, are essentially permits that beachgoers must purchase to access specific beaches during the summer months.

The idea is simple: if you want to spend a day on the sand, you need to buy a tag and display it visibly on your person or belongings.

The cost of these badges varies, with different prices for daily, weekly, or seasonal access and occasional discounts for veterans, seniors, and youth.

For instance, a daily beach tag might cost from $3.5 to $15, while a seasonal tag could range from $30 to $150 or more, depending on the location.

The History of Beach Tags

The concept of beach badges dates back to the late 1930s, with one of the earliest instances being in Ocean City, New Jersey.

Initially, the purpose was to generate revenue for maintaining the seaside and providing services such as lifeguards, restrooms, and trash removal.

Over time, other towns along the New Jersey coastline adopted the system, and it became a common practice.

During the mid-20th century, as tourism boomed and more people flocked to the shore, the demand for beach amenities grew.

Towns saw beach badges as a way to fund these amenities without burdening local taxpayers.

By the 1980s, beach tags were a well-established practice in New Jersey, with various towns implementing their own versions of the system.

A Controversial Charge

Despite their widespread use, beach tokens have been a source of intense controversy - even more than Southern California's infamous black ball flag.

Critics argue that charging for shoreline access is inherently unfair, as it limits access to a public natural resource based on the ability to pay.

This issue raises concerns about equity and the idea that beaches, like parks and other public spaces, should be free for all to enjoy.

Some opponents of beach badges have gone as far as to challenge their legality, arguing that they violate the public trust doctrine.

This legal principle holds that certain natural resources, including the shoreline or intertidal zone, should be preserved for public use.

For instance, would it make sense to apply the same charging principle to city parks and gardens, playgrounds, or public plazas?

Maybe not. A taxpayer's money is supposed to fund public expenses.

In some beaches, the cost of tags can be prohibitive, effectively making the beach an exclusive resource for those who can afford it.

Also, charging for beach access raises ethical questions about the commercialization of public resources.

Many believe that beaches should be free for all to enjoy, without financial barriers.

Last but not least, some argue that beach tags deter tourists from visiting, particularly those who may not be aware of the requirement or who are unwilling to pay.

The New Jersey-born measure could potentially hurt local businesses that rely on a steady stream of beachgoers.

On the other hand, beach tags provide a steady stream of revenue for towns, with supporters arguing that they are necessary for maintaining the quality and safety of the beaches.

They are legally framed as a user fee.

"Without the revenue from beach tags, towns would struggle to fund essential services such as lifeguards, beach patrols, regular beach clean-ups, and facilities like restrooms and showers," say proponents.

They also point out that overcrowded beaches can suffer from erosion, litter, and damage to local ecosystems.

As a result, beach tags help manage the number of visitors and reduce the environmental impact on the sands.

The truth is that courts have generally upheld the use of beach tags, provided that the fees collected are used for beach-related expenses.

Surfers have been arrested in the intertidal zone for not displaying the token while getting out of the water.

People with counterfeit, forged, altered, or fake beach badges face a fine ranging from $100 to $2,000, imprisonment for up to 90 days, community service for up to 90 days, or any combination of these.

New Jersey: Free vs. Paid Access Beaches

In 2024, only 12 out of nearly 90 beaches of New Jersey's 130-mile coastline were free access. Here's the breakdown:

Free

• Atlantic City
• Bay Front
• Beesley's Point
• Highlands
• Ideal Beach
• Jennifer Lane Bay Beach
• Keansburg Beach
• Leonardo Beach
• Strathmere  
• Union Beach
• The Wildwoods
• William Morrow Beach

Paid

• Allenhurst
• Asbury Park
• Atsion Recreation Area
• Avalon
• Avon-by-the-Sea
• Barnegat Light
• Bay Head
• Beach Haven
• Beach Haven Crest
• Beach Haven Gardens
• Beach Haven Park
• Beach Haven Terrace
• Beachwood
• Belleplain State Forest
• Belmar
• Borough of Highlands
• Bradley Beach
• Brant Beach
• Brigantine Beach
• Brighton Beach
• Cape May
• Cape May Point
• Cheesequake State Park
• City of Wildwood
• Corson's Inlet State Park
• Deal
• Delaware Water Gap National Recreation Area
• Harvey Cedars
• High Point State Park
• Holgate
• Hopatcong State Park
• Island Beach State Park
• Island Heights
• Lavallette
• Loch Arbour
• Long Beach Township
• Long Branch
• Longport
• Loveladies
• Manasquan
• Mantoloking
• Margate
• Maxson Avenue Beach
• Monmouth Beach
• North Beach
• North Beach Haven
• North Wildwood
• Ocean City
• Ocean County Park
• Ocean Gate
• Ocean Grove
• Ortley Beach (Toms River)
• Peahala Park
• Pine Beach
• Point Pleasant Beach
• Round Valley Recreation Area
• Sandy Hook Unit, Gateway National Recreation Area
• Sea Bright
• Sea Girt
• Sea Isle City
• Seaside Heights
• Seaside Park
• Seven Presidents Oceanfront Park
• Shelter Cover (Toms River)
• Ship Bottom
• Spray Beach
• Spring Lake
• Spruce Run Recreation Area
• Stokes State Forest
• Stone Harbor
• Surf City
• Swartswood State Park
• Ventnor City
• White Sands Beach
• Wildwood Crest
• Windward Beach (Brick)

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/what-are-beach-tags

My name is Andy Steckel. I was born in Pennsylvania and grew up on Long Island, New York, but I have lived mostly in Northern California.

I spent many summer days bodysurfing at Jones Beach State Park in Wantagh, New York, with my younger brother and older sister.

I loved the weightlessness of flying for a few seconds and then lying in bed that night, still feeling my body bobbing.

I also loved watching the surfers glide off Robert Moses State Park Field 5.

I tried it myself a few times as a teen but never had a good balance, and I soon happily returned to the more comfortable shallow pool.

I moved West for school and spent 30 years as an environmental engineer working on air pollution regulations in San Francisco.

I retired in 2017 and started drawing cartoons about things that interest me, like the ocean, nature, climate change, and sometimes politics.

I am 63 and still love bodysurfing when I make it to warm waters back East or in Southern California, and I get my breath taken away once in a while by the surfers at Mavericks.

But mostly now, I spend time drawing, gardening, and playing with my one-year-old grandson. 

I draw on an iPad using Procreate, inexpensive software used by many cartoonists and illustrators.

I've been published by a few small venues, including Bay Area organizations working to address climate change and homelessness.

I spend about two hours every morning thinking and drawing before the rest of the house awakes. 

I don't plan to publish my cartoons in a book, but I enjoy drawing them and showcasing them on websites or magazines that might consider them useful content.

Surf Meeting

Surfing Shark

Beware of God

Hanging 10

Desert Surfing

Rediscover Climate

Snow Globes/Climates Collectibles

Tropical Newton

SPF 10,000

Jonah's Outgoing Message

Summer Intern

Words and Cartoons by Andy Steckel | Bodysurfer, Environmental Engineer, and Cartoonist

https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/the-surf-cartoon-art-of-andy-steckel

River surfing is a growing outdoor activity with hundreds of thousands of participants taking off at all types of inland water streams.

Nowadays, it is incredibly easy and inexpensive to create a river surfing wave when it is not readily made available by Mother Nature.

Standing waves are fun to ride. They allow inland surfing enthusiasts to enjoy the pleasures of wave-riding thousands of miles away from the ocean.

River surf breaks are, therefore, getting increasingly crowded.

Whether you're at the Eisbach in Munich or at the Bend Whitewater Park in Oregon, there are some guidelines you need to follow before jumping into the water.

River waves have two main limitations compared to their oceanic counterparts: the rideable length is limited, and they're confined to potentially hazardous boundaries.

Consequently, there are rules and precautions one must embrace to make it safe and pleasant for everyone.

The following directives help ensure the river surfing experience remains unforgettable and injury-free for all riders.

They're common-sense regulations everyone should embrace at any spot, inspired by one of the most active communities: the Colorado River surfers.

1. Assess the Risk and Dangers

Rivers are natural environments with all the hazards that they may contain.

Know the current river flow and identify the potentially dangerous and rocky areas.

Learn about river hazards and mitigations: entanglement, flush drowning, strainers, sweepers, swift current, floating debris, foot entrapment, board strike, keeper hydraulics, pin rocks, river bottom encounters, whirlpools, cold water, etc.

Fixed ropes have caused many river recreation fatalities.

Never swim or surf alone; check that the last surfer has safely returned to shore.

Never stand up in the current, as feet can be entrapped and hold you down.

Only stand up once you are in shallow water and close to the shore.

2. Use Protective Gear

Falling and wiping out is part of river surfing. Everybody falls off their board and wipes out.

Therefore, you should protect your body against high impacts.

Recommended protective gear includes a life jacket, wetsuit, booties, and a helmet.

When using a surfboard or bodyboard, always use a releasable leash.

Leashes can become pinned on the bottom or against rocks and trap a surfer underwater.

If the water is particularly cold, wear a wetsuit that suits the water temperature.

3. Upstream Traffic Has the Right of Way

Look upstream before dropping in, and help others in line if you see someone upstream.

Wait to drop in until the upstream traffic has passed. 

Kick out of the wave if upstream traffic is coming down - do not sit on the shoulder and wait for them to pass.

4. Keep an Eye Out for the Person Who Just Surfed

Watching the person who preceded your run is good etiquette and a potentially life-saving guideline.

Some say the next in line should check, some say the second in line should check, some say surf with a buddy and keep an eye on each other.

However you do it, be aware of the other surfers and river surfers around you.

If someone needs help and you don't feel comfortable helping, ask someone in line. Look out for each other.

5. Keep your Rides Short

The idea is quite simple: the more surfing people get to do, the less upset people are about waiting, and the more respectful they are likely to be of others and the spot.

Surf for a maximum of one minute - 45 seconds or less is better. Keeping it short keeps the spirits up. 

Only one person should be allowed on the wave at a time.

6. Be Respectful of Non-Surfer Locals

First off, we should always treat others with respect.

But to go a step further, we must remember most residents don't surf.

So we should all do our best to be a positive asset to the town, not just a neutral one.

Give people a reason to be excited about all the new traffic in the vicinity, not a reason to complain to the town council about some wave that they don't understand and minimize negative impacts.

There are local leaders fighting for the surfers and the wave, so let's help make their lives easier.

Be friendly and supportive at all times, and remember that surfing under the influence of alcohol or drugs is not welcome.

7. Respect Your Fellow Water Sportspeople

Surfers are only a fraction of all river sports enthusiasts.

Respect all rafting, kayaking, stand-up paddleboarding, and swimming participants with whom you share the water.

8. Assist If Necessary

Be able to self-rescue and be prepared for both surfer and board rescue.

Use the board to aid the rescue of others.

Carry communication capabilities, knife, and throw bag.

Get swift water rescue training.

9. Do Not Park or Camp on the Riverside

Is it convenient? Yes. Does the town want people doing it? No.

Just because something is convenient for you does not mean it is in the best interest of the surf community.

As for day car parking, please leave your vehicle in official parking lots.

The goal is to be a positive asset to the town or village, not just a neutral one.

10. Pick Up After Yourselves and Others

It's pretty simple.

Leave a spot in a better place than you found it, and you'll keep being invited back.

11. Off-Leash Dogs Are Not Allowed

It's great to let our dog roam as much as anyone, but some towns have leash laws, and if surfers continue to ignore it, that's a bad look for the surf community as a whole.

Respect the local laws: leash your dog or leave them at home or in a climate-controlled vehicle. 

12. Don't Power Up the Tunes at Night

Night river surfing sessions can be fun.

However, if the wave is in a residential area, there's certainly a sound ordinance.

Keep a low profile, and you won't annoy the neighbors.

Respect the neighbors' rest, and you'll probably be allowed to keep surfing.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/the-complete-guide-to-river-surfing-safety-and-etiquette

Double-up waves are a striking and relatively rare type of ocean wave and simultaneously a challenge for advanced surfers.

A double-up wave is as spectacular as weird and unusual.

It somehow defies the common understanding of what a normal oceanic wave is. Why? Because it morphs and eventually becomes two waves.

These freaks of Nature are characterized by their immense power and distinctive structure and have a reputation for being both exhilarating and dangerous.

But how do these mutant liquid walls of water work?

A double-up wave forms when the crests and troughs of two separate waves align and merge, creating a singular and uneven amplified wave.

The merging is not merely the simple addition of two waves' energy but a complex interaction that leads to a distinctive wave formation, often marked by a midface step.

Consequently, the resulting wave is not just larger in size but also more powerful and unpredictable, making it a challenge for surfers to ride.

Sometimes, it's just impossible to surf it.

The Ducklings Theory

According to oceanographers, the existence of nearby outer sandbars or reefs can divide a single band of wave energy into a main wave just behind a set of secondary waves.

Tony Butt, a surfer, physical oceanographer, and author of the book "Surf Science," once compared double-up waves to a "family of ducks, where the mother duck has her ducklings in front of her instead of behind."

As the group of waves moves toward the beach, the smaller waves slow down and embed themselves back into the face of the bigger wave, thus creating a morphing wave event.

According to the ocean researcher, double-up waves happen more often when the swell period is long.

A long swell period means the waves are more spaced out, giving them more time to interact with underwater structures like sandbars or reefs.

The interaction enhances the chances of wave energy alignment, resulting in a double-up wave.

Nevertheless, it can also form from intersecting "rebound" swells at locations like Newport Beach's The Wedge or Sydney's Cape Fear.

In places with extreme deep-to-shallow reef breaks, such as Tasmania's Shipstern Bluff, the double-up effect becomes so intense and pronounced that these waves are often referred to as "slabs."

These waves are especially dangerous due to the abrupt transition from deep to shallow water, which amplifies the wave's power and creates a highly treacherous surf environment.

Risk Vs. Reward

Surfing a double-up wave is complicated, and the success rate is low.

These waves are known for their unpredictability, with the midface step often creating a sudden, steep drop that can catch surfers off guard.

The intense power of a double-up wave can make it unrideable under certain conditions, leading to wipeouts that are not only inevitable but also potentially dangerous.

However, for those with the skill and bravery to tame these waves, the rewards can be massive.

When conditions are right, a double-up wave can offer the ride of a lifetime, providing a massive, spit-filled tube that few other waves can match.

The experience of getting barreled in such a wave, surrounded by the roaring sound of the water, could translate into the ride of a lifetime.

Before you adventure yourself, study the wave, observe it for hours, and gather a team of experts and lifesavers.

The chances it can go wrong are high, so minimizing potential risks is mandatory.

Words by Luís MP | Founder of SurferToday.com

https://www.surfertoday.com/surfing/what-is-a-double-up-wave