World Surf League (Surfing)
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One early spring day in 1962, Jan and I were driving to the beach in my newly custom-painted, fuel-injected Corvette.
I had spent months hand-sanding the fiberglass. I had taken off all the chrome. The guy from the Japanese body shop I frequented painted the car with twenty coats of Chinese red lacquer.
The indent on the side of the car that was normally painted white at the factory, I had painted jet black. I removed the fake knock-off hubcaps, painted the rims jet black, and put on small, button Chevy hubcaps.
"Having steadily surfed since the days of gremlins, ho-dads, and baggies, the author is well aware that surfers are hardly a politically oriented fraternity."
"Nevertheless, there are hundreds of thousands of beach lovers, and we are a potential source of political power that as yet is as untapped as the power of the surf."
I wrote that about surfer power in my first article for Surfer Magazine in 1970. It was half a century ago.
Filipe Toledo and Tatiana Weston-Webb have taken out the 2021 Boost Mobile Margaret River Pro in Western Australia.
The fourth stop on the 2021 World Surf League (WSL) Championship Tour (CT) concluded in clean four-to-six-foot waves at Main Break.
In the men's final, the Brazilian was able to apply his frontside power turns in the critical sections of the waves and earn two high scores from the judges.
The revival of surfing, which took place at the beginning of the 20th century, coincided with the revival of swimming.
Although swimming can be traced back to antiquity and numbers Caesar and Charlemagne among its more famous exponents, the sport had fallen into disrepute during the Middle Ages, as it was thought to be the cause of smallpox epidemics.
When taken up again in the last century, swimming out of doors had transgressed Victorian ideas of morality, and there were many complaints about mixed bathing and the flagrant exposure of naked flesh on the beaches (such as fingers, toes, and necks!)
A group of academics and river surfing experts teamed up to change the way river surfing waves are built. And you're invited to build your own inland roller.
The project led by Canadian river surfing enthusiasts Surf Anywhere tested different river wave shapes that can be built in future projects to increase performance beyond the standard builds seen in river waves today.
Researching new designs will allow waves in the river to more accurately reflect ocean surf waves bridging the gap between river surfing and its ancestor ocean surfing.
Sooner or later, the ambition of most surfers leads them to think of the big surf.
The fact that there are probably no more than 50 people alive who consistently ride the biggest waves and that these people are usually lifeguards or champion swimmers is no deterrent.
The big surf is the secret aim of practically every surfer from the moment he first stands up at Waikiki or Huntington Beach, although perhaps he would be more cautious if he knew some of the facts.
On May 1, it's time to celebrate International Bodysurfing Day (IBSD).
After all, the art of riding waves without a buoyant watercraft dates as far back as 2,000 B.C. and predates board riding.
The initiative was soft-launched in 2020 by John P. Murphy, an American writer and teacher who lives in Puerto Escondido, Mexico.
After I had established a regular program for my return to surfing, I found things entirely different from the few days spent with [German photographer] Hanns Hubmann.
For the first month, I was still pretty weak, but I was stimulated by the competition from Larry and George, who were getting better fast.
I learned again that paddling was half the battle and that to paddle properly, you had to have the board at just the right angle, or it will not glide.
A man's first visit to Hawaii is like coming home after a long exile in a foreign country.
Such is Hawaiian hospitality that the meanest stranger, an outcast in his own society, will soon be an accepted member of the island scene.
Scrooge would be inconceivable as a serious character in a novel about Hawaii.
Dudeism is a religion and philosophy founded in 2005 by journalist Oliver Benjamin. Its belief system is inspired by the 1998 movie "The Big Lebowski."
The cult classic film stars Jeff Bridges as "The Dude," an easygoing, carefree Los Angelino fond of weed and White Russian drinks.
The iconic character also enjoys having a bath to the recorded sounds of whale calls and bowling with friends.